Friday, November 13, 2009

Classic route day - some old some new!

Yesterday, November 12, 09 saw the Linez get visited by "Climber Dave" (Access Fund and OR) and Doug Madara, (La Sportiva Sales rep) from NH.  Jon took them on the short tour up the main access path (carriage road to us Gunkies) to the tallest cliff in the Linez, home to Big Red Knob, Papa Bear and other trad lines.

After giving our esteemed visitors a short history of climbing in the Linez, a history of his work on the guidebook (that Jon has just about single-handedly put together---contact him for a copy---) we all roped up to try some routes.

Jon picked out a new line between Papa Bear and the Knob, and he led it up clean in great style.  I seconded him up, but at the crux high step my creaky hip wouldn't let me negotiate it without potentially pulling on gear.  Rather than doing that, I kept the ethic and asked to be lowered

Doug then tied in, and rope gun that he is (read on for more) he easily dispatched the high step and finished up the new line with Jon.      Here's Doug past the high step and about to move to the arete.

Doug on the arete and moving to the top.

Doug clearing the last slabby rise to the top.

Doug and Dave then moved off to the right to try a couple of lines (see photos below) while Jon and I moved over to the Knob.

Doug stepping across from the huge flake to the main face.

Doug looking to place gear under the roof.

And the obligatory rap shots, first Doug then Jon:

Later that morning we moved deep into the Linez for a go at God Jam Roof.  See the pics below.  Confirming his status as hardman and ropegun of the day, Doug spent about 20 minutes puzzling it out and then led it clean.  We set a directional off a tree and using pre-placed gear on lead (to prevent groundfall and a penje into the tree) both Dave and Jon got it done!

Here's Doug sussing out God Jam Roof before his successful send.

Here's Dave on his way through the opening moves looking for the knee bar.

Getting the knee bar.

After a fall or two Dave got the send.  Jon followed Dave's effort with a successful send of his own.

While Doug was working through God Jam Roof, Jon put up a short but very sketch new line---beta photo below (follow the red cord):

All in all a great day at the 'Linez!

(all photos copyright S.Knowlton and J. Crefeld)

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