Saturday, June 18, 2011

Gunks climbers stop by!

Here's the link to Jesse Littleton's blog:  Gunksterpuller  He really gets in a lot of climbing, and he and Andrew from Rock and Snow were able to stop in and enjoy some first ascents and projects.  The full text is contained below - thanks for the write-up Jesse,  and make sure to stop by his blog for some beta and insight into a lot of great areas!


So lately I've been putting a "z" or two on the end of blog post titles to be ironic and funny. But, actually, Powerlinez is the name of a climbing area. I just found out about it last ironic!!

Powerlinez is a climbing area about an hour south from the Gunks, just off of the Thruway. The rock there is a granitic gneiss, so it has a similar feel to the Adirondacks, except a little bit smaller and broken up cliffs. That and there is a bunch of good, worthwhile bouldering. Most of the climbing is under some pretty heavy duty power lines...hence the IRONIC@!@11!

We started with some bouldering and warming up at the first little spot, which was only a few minutes from the car. We did a fun little dynamic V3 and then moved over to some tall cracks with some exciting top outs. Then we went over to a slab-ish arete kind of thing. It probably goes at something like V4. It was really good. I got it second try.

Andrew "near the top."

After that we went uphill a little bit and roped up at the Stockade Cliff. There was a top-rope climb at the cliff called Crankenstein that hadn't been led yet, so Andrew and I rock/paper/sicissorzed and he won. He geared up and put the thing away. Very much fun. Bouldery off the ground, and then hero climbing to the top.

Andrew, just after the crux on Crankenstein.
Our friend John, author of the Powerlinez guidebook, was out with us, and he had a little project that he tried after Crankenstein. There's a horizontal feature that runs across most of the Stockade feature. And since we are all really Gunksterpullers, sideways travel is second nature. It's a really good line. It's got technical ballet feet and a range of good, decent and bad holds. Nice and long too, like close to 70 feet.

John on his traverse at the Stockade Cliff.

When we were done with the ropes, we all decided that we were kind of spent from the sunshine, so we moved back into the woods and did some more bouldering. It looks like there is a lot of sub-cliffs and smaller bands of rock. You could certainly get lost back there doing some exploring. Some cool stuff for sure.

Andrew ending the day with a sweet, dynamic, V3.
After that little bit of bouldering, we all decided that the sun beat us down, so we called it a day. All in all it was a fun day. Definitely worth the trip down to the Powerlinez. It's only a half-hour from New York City, so I bet Powerlinez is a good alternative to the Gunks if the weather is iffy, or maybe if the Gunks are gonna be busy for a local looking to get some time on rock.

Oh, and I forgot to mention...the weather was so good today! All the humidity got sucked out of the air last night, and the temperature dropped by at least ten degrees. That's the good stuff.