Saturday, November 14, 2009

Doug on 'No Rest ...' Crux

And to give Doug his credit on the crux of 'No Rest for the Wicked,' you've got to straighten the pic and zoom in.  It is airy and he recommended it might be better suited with a 5.9+ rating.  Definitely goes in the book as one of our prouder lines.  Jon.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Classic route day - some old some new!

Yesterday, November 12, 09 saw the Linez get visited by "Climber Dave" (Access Fund and OR) and Doug Madara, (La Sportiva Sales rep) from NH.  Jon took them on the short tour up the main access path (carriage road to us Gunkies) to the tallest cliff in the Linez, home to Big Red Knob, Papa Bear and other trad lines.

After giving our esteemed visitors a short history of climbing in the Linez, a history of his work on the guidebook (that Jon has just about single-handedly put together---contact him for a copy---) we all roped up to try some routes.

Jon picked out a new line between Papa Bear and the Knob, and he led it up clean in great style.  I seconded him up, but at the crux high step my creaky hip wouldn't let me negotiate it without potentially pulling on gear.  Rather than doing that, I kept the ethic and asked to be lowered

Doug then tied in, and rope gun that he is (read on for more) he easily dispatched the high step and finished up the new line with Jon.      Here's Doug past the high step and about to move to the arete.

Doug on the arete and moving to the top.

Doug clearing the last slabby rise to the top.

Doug and Dave then moved off to the right to try a couple of lines (see photos below) while Jon and I moved over to the Knob.

Doug stepping across from the huge flake to the main face.

Doug looking to place gear under the roof.

And the obligatory rap shots, first Doug then Jon:

Later that morning we moved deep into the Linez for a go at God Jam Roof.  See the pics below.  Confirming his status as hardman and ropegun of the day, Doug spent about 20 minutes puzzling it out and then led it clean.  We set a directional off a tree and using pre-placed gear on lead (to prevent groundfall and a penje into the tree) both Dave and Jon got it done!

Here's Doug sussing out God Jam Roof before his successful send.

Here's Dave on his way through the opening moves looking for the knee bar.

Getting the knee bar.

After a fall or two Dave got the send.  Jon followed Dave's effort with a successful send of his own.

While Doug was working through God Jam Roof, Jon put up a short but very sketch new line---beta photo below (follow the red cord):

All in all a great day at the 'Linez!

(all photos copyright S.Knowlton and J. Crefeld)

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Gardening on Rappel

Here's a few shots of Jon and I doing some gardening at the 'Linez last October.  Jon and I found some new lines but also discovered they needed a bit of trimming to minimize the vertical bushwhacking.  We didn't remove much---just enough to prevent getting a branch or two in the face!

Good times!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Powerlinez. What a special place. I was happy to be part of the scene back in the day before moving to San Fran! In fact, its probably one of the top two things I miss most about the East coast. I only wish I could have been around longer to help more with the advancement of the guidebook (and further bagging and naming of first ascents).

Here is a blast from the past. Note date stamp (October 07, 2006). I think this was about 2 weeks in our full assault; giddy energy resulting in things like "look ma no hands," "the run up" and most importantly the "zzzzzzzzzzz" in the linez.

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Ascending the Ent

Here's another example of the great moderate bouldering problems at the 'Linez.
On June 28, 2009 my son and I were at the 'Linez looking to do some moderates.
We hiked out a bit left and found this moderate gem that my son sent first shot out of the barn.
He named it "Ascending the Ent."

Head straight up the crack and gain the first horizontal.  Then go either right or left around "The Ent"and up the cracks to a final mantle on slopers to the top. (15 feet V0-V1 [height related---harder if short])
Here's Dev at the first horizontal after climbing the crack.

Dev at the big horizontal heading to the slopers and top.

Knowlton-Barone aka Friday the 13th

On Friday, March 13 2009 on a cold cold day, Dave, Jon and I walked to the far end of the 'Linez to try a line I had discovered a few months earlier during a hike with my son.  A dead vertical crack to the left of a huge block, it looked to take good gear.
It starts out inside of the left facing flake and proceeds straight up past 3 horizontals to a block.  While the picture doesn't show it, the huge block to the right actually overhangs the lower section by about 20 inches, so getting into the opening and then standing up was for me, an exercise in thrutch!  Then, go straight up, jamming (hands, or stacked fists/arm bars if small hands) or laybacking on the sloped sides of the crack while jamming feet. Final moves to the top are committing.  Then, easy walk-off to climber's left to base.
Dave and Jon graciously gave me the first crack (sorry!) at it and here I am on the top of the lower flake.  After jamming a leg and hip into the horizontal opening I was able to finally reach up left and get in a cam above the open box in the bottom of the crack.

Standing up, however, was another thing and after spending 10 minutes trying to maneuver while blowing on my frozen fingers to try to keep some feeling in them, I bailed off to give Dave a shot.
Dave moved up to my former high spot and after a bit of manipulation, stood and started the dead vertical crack.  Jamming feet with a combination of gaston, layback and jamming hands he moved up and then "Rock!" The chockstone you can see in the beta pic came tumbling down!!  Just another reminder to check all holds and pro in the 'Linez carefully!!
He moved up another few feet, placed a cam and then committed to the thin final moves and up.  Proud lead, Dave!  Here's a pic of the toprope.   Dave gave it a 5.8+ or 5.9 PG.  Super line!

Looking forward!

3 Nov 09 - It's a pretty incredible day and I think I'll head up to the Powerlinez.  If you're reading this,  welcome to the club and to the opportunity.  As I walk across the log that is the access path,  I can't help but hope that some day we could get a cable bridge,  or even a parking area up on the hill.  I don't think that's asking too much!  Bottom-line,  we've got great climbing, how about great access?

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Kevin Johnson attacks the God Jam Roof. Oct 6th 09, hanging off upside-down hand and toe jams alone, Kevin pulled the first and only ascent. In the photo, he's pulling a victory lap on top-rope. Kevin grades the route at 5.11, but I think he's sandbagging us. We'll just have to see.