Blog shutting down

Since the Powerlinez/Ramapo Torne Valley Climbing now has three Facebook pages, this blog is no longer needed.  For current information and updates please search The Powerlinez, The Powerlinez - Beta Shed, and Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition on Facebook. Thanks for your support!

Powerlinez Trail Day - this Saturday!

All right! - the time is here again!

Powerlinez Trail Day
Support your local crag and NYC’s closest best kept secret!
When: Saturday, June 21st, 2014 - 9am-1pm
Where: Powerlinez Trail Head, parking just below the intersection of Torne Valley and Torne Brook Roads.
What: Bring a bagged lunch, rakes, clippers, bow saws, work gloves, and your climbing gear!
Why: Join us to help maintain the Powerlinez Climbing area in Torne Valley! We’ll be improving trails, fighting soil compaction, and providing vital information on how to find your way around the Powerlinez to ensure it stays open. After some hard work, put on your rock shoes because we’ll be enjoying some climbing.
Who: The Torne Valley Climbers Coalition. If you have any questions you can contact Norm Rasmussen at norm@gravityvault.com or 201-378-8830.

Parking Guidelines

This weekend we had some issues with parking.  Just to be clear, here is a diagram of the parking plan. Green = good. Red = bad! Thanks in advance for your help.

TVCC Wins 2013 Access Fund Sharp End Award!

The TVCC Executive Committee is pleased and proud to announce that TVCC is the recipient of a 2013 Sharp End Award from the Access Fund for the work done over nearly 18 months to get climber access established at the Powerlinez.

Patient, persistent and cooperative efforts led to establishing climber access in the Torne--the only site in Harriman State Park where climbing is permitted.  Now we as climbers must do everything we can to keep access by taking care of the places we love.

Sharp End Award - Torne Valley Climbers Coalition
Access Fund is pleased to recognize the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition (TVCC) for their exemplary grassroots organizing and advocacy which successfully reopened the Powerlinez climbing area in Torne Valley, New York. Powerlinez was closed in 2011 due to concerns about increased climbing use from the area’s multiple landowners. A core team of individuals formed TVCC and began working with the local climbing community and Powerlinez’ three landowners. Each TVCC leader brought important skills to bear on the effort. TVCC’s patient, professional, and cooperative approach reopened Powerlinez in 2012 and serves as a model for successful grassroots climbing advocacy. Congratulations, TVCC!. (http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=7903133&ct=13595981&notoc=1)

TRAIL DAY - Saturday, May 25!

VOLUNTEERING AT THE POWERLINEZ

POWERLINEZ to the PEOPLE!

9:00 AM Saturday,  May 25th
Meet:  The Powerlinez Access Path
intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd

Congratulations to the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition and everyone who contributed to bringing this beloved climbing area back to life. They fought hard to have this area re-opened, now it's your turn to help out!

During this volunteer day, we will mark trails, clean debris and fallen trees, pick up garbage and make landing areas safer. After putting in a fair share of work, everyone will have an opportunity to learn the area and climb climb climb.

For those of you who have not heard of this gem, it's a gem. View some pictures, learn more about the area, and come join us for a great day of trail work!

Torne Valley Climbing is Open!!

The TVCC, over the last 18 months, worked closely with the Palisades Interstate Parks Commission to develop a climbing management plan for the Torne Valley Section of Harriman State Park.  On May 1, 2013 that plan went into effect making climbing legal in the Torne Valley Section ONLY.  As of now, climbing is not permitted in any other part of PIPC park land except the Torne Valley Section and Peterskill.

In order to climb in the Torne Valley Section climbers must execute a waiver and a tear-off permit that must be carried with them.  There is no charge for the permit, and it is good for the year 2013. Waivers can be signed and permits obtained at both Gravity Vault climbing gym locations, as well as the New Jersey Rock Gym and Rock and Snow in New Paltz.

The regulations are listed on the signs pictured to the left, as well as listed on the waiver that climbers sign.

It is so important that we as climbers follow these regulations, and act as ambassadors for our sport.  Climbers have traditionally been environmental activists, and even though this part of Harriman State Park is not pristine wilderness, we must care for it as if it were.

PLEASE pack out everything you bring in, and carry an extra bag to pack out trash that others leave.

Climbing in this part of Harriman State Park is a privilege that can be revoked at any time, and the TVCC urges all climbers to follow the posted regulations at all times.

Now get out there!

PRESS RELEASE: POWERLINEZ OPENS MAY 1ST!

Congratulations to the Torne Valley Climber's Coalition,  and everyone who pulled in the right direction!

All you've got to do is sign a waiver and hand it in, and you'll get an annual permit that you can carry with you.  No fee. The waivers are now available at The Gravity Vault, and at Rock and Snow.

Please read the attached info and support this incredible opportunity.  We are the first area and group of climbers with which The Palisades Interstate Park Commission has partnered.  It's a real honor.  Stay informed and climb free!

Other Key Facts:
1.  Access Path Has Changed - It now goes up the dirt road by the river.  We do not have permission to use the old access path.
2.  Off Limits Boulders - we do not have permission to use the West End Wall, on the far West side of the Boulder Road,  before you get to the open swath (South) of the Powerlinez.
3.  No Bolts, Pitons, Chipping.  Clean climbing!

Basically think Peterskill with no fee,  read the attached Press Release, and THANKS

Meeting of the TVCC (Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition)

Meeting Notice: the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition will have an informational meeting on April 17, 2013 starting promptly at 7PM at The Gravity Vault, Upper Saddle River (107 Pleasant Ave @ Rt. 17, Upper Saddle River NJ). The Torne Valley Climbing Management Plan will be discussed, as well as TVCC actions going forward. Hope to see you all there.

Paint Sludge at the Powerlinez

Paint sludge in the Torne Valley.

As the TVCC (Torne Valley Climbers Coalition) continues to work toward the goal of opening access at the Powerlinez, (Yes, it is still closed and the TVCC is making progress)  there are some key issues to highlight that will effect access and use in the future.


On the top of that list,  is the fact that the area has been used as a dumping ground for excess paint sludge.  The paint sludge pictured here lies just off Torne Valley Road, by the new Ramapo Saltbox Environmental Research Center. (ERC). 

One such sludge deposit lies right off the access path by the turn-a-round used for parking by climbers,  and there are many more in the valley.  Odds are,  if you've hiked or climbed around the Powerlinez,  then you've walked over and around the paint sludge.

The paint sludge came from a Ford Plant that was operating in Mahwah,  and there have been countless articles: NJ Record Article and an HBO documentary titled Ford vs. Mann about it's toxicity and pollution. 

Environmentalists have been fighting for clean-up for years and they still need our support.  Ford dumped the sludge there because they thought no one would notice,  and the corporation has been very effective in evading its responsibilities.  If climbers are allowed to use the area,  we can definitely raise awareness and continue to point out the obvious:  the Torne Valley is dangerously polluted with paint sludge.

Powerlinez Access Denied

Based on the following article,  the Palisades Interstate Park Committee is planning to enforce its no climbing policy on the Powerlinez.

Power Struggle Over the Powerlinez

The author, Joseph Caravaglia, reports that:  'that climbers caught in the area will “be escorted off the premises by park police, although the area will remain available for hikers.” Signs and fences are scheduled to be placed throughout the property, and failure to adhere to the new mandate (repeat offenders) may face steep fines instead of steep faces.'

The Torne Valley Coalition of climbers met 1 Feb 11, to discuss the issue and made the following statement:

Climbing is currently prohibited in 95% of the Powerlinez. We are pursuing legal access and any unauthorized climbing will impact that effort in a negative way.  We are definitely soliciting the support of the entire climbing community and welcome any contributions and suggestions you have.  Finally,  remember that many park officials will visit this site, and what is said will be read by them, and unfair characterizations may hurt our cause.

NEXT Torne Valley ... Coalition Meeting

February 1st, 7 pm Gravity Vault.

Top-roping at the 'Linez

NEXT Torne Valley ... Coalition Meeting: Wednesday, February 1st, 7 pm Gravity Vault. Items on the agenda will be: access issues, mapping climbing areas and trails, and more access issues.

Thanks to the great bunch of people that came out for our inaugural meeting.  We covered a long list of topics from trails and parking to rattlesnakes and artifacts, and if I may,  the general consensus was to create a positive relationship with the land managers by planning ahead to reduce impact.  Happy Holidays,  Jon.

Gunks climbers stop by!

Here's the link to Jesse Littleton's blog:  Gunksterpuller  He really gets in a lot of climbing, and he and Andrew from Rock and Snow were able to stop in and enjoy some first ascents and projects.  The full text is contained below - thanks for the write-up Jesse,  and make sure to stop by his blog for some beta and insight into a lot of great areas!

Powerlinez

So lately I've been putting a "z" or two on the end of blog post titles to be ironic and funny. But, actually, Powerlinez is the name of a climbing area. I just found out about it last night...how ironic!!

Powerlinez is a climbing area about an hour south from the Gunks, just off of the Thruway. The rock there is a granitic gneiss, so it has a similar feel to the Adirondacks, except a little bit smaller and broken up cliffs. That and there is a bunch of good, worthwhile bouldering. Most of the climbing is under some pretty heavy duty power lines...hence the name...how IRONIC@!@11!

We started with some bouldering and warming up at the first little spot, which was only a few minutes from the car. We did a fun little dynamic V3 and then moved over to some tall cracks with some exciting top outs. Then we went over to a slab-ish arete kind of thing. It probably goes at something like V4. It was really good. I got it second try.

Andrew "near the top."

After that we went uphill a little bit and roped up at the Stockade Cliff. There was a top-rope climb at the cliff called Crankenstein that hadn't been led yet, so Andrew and I rock/paper/sicissorzed and he won. He geared up and put the thing away. Very much fun. Bouldery off the ground, and then hero climbing to the top.

Andrew, just after the crux on Crankenstein.

Our friend John, author of the Powerlinez guidebook, was out with us, and he had a little project that he tried after Crankenstein. There's a horizontal feature that runs across most of the Stockade feature. And since we are all really Gunksterpullers, sideways travel is second nature. It's a really good line. It's got technical ballet feet and a range of good, decent and bad holds. Nice and long too, like close to 70 feet.

John on his traverse at the Stockade Cliff.

When we were done with the ropes, we all decided that we were kind of spent from the sunshine, so we moved back into the woods and did some more bouldering. It looks like there is a lot of sub-cliffs and smaller bands of rock. You could certainly get lost back there doing some exploring. Some cool stuff for sure.

Andrew ending the day with a sweet, dynamic, V3.
After that little bit of bouldering, we all decided that the sun beat us down, so we called it a day. All in all it was a fun day. Definitely worth the trip down to the Powerlinez. It's only a half-hour from New York City, so I bet Powerlinez is a good alternative to the Gunks if the weather is iffy, or maybe if the Gunks are gonna be busy for a local looking to get some time on rock.

Oh, and I forgot to mention...the weather was so good today! All the humidity got sucked out of the air last night, and the temperature dropped by at least ten degrees. That's the good stuff.

Thanks for the Trail and Climb Day Success!!!

 2 April 2010.   The first  Powerlinez Trail and Climb day was a terrific success, with many thanks going out to a core group of Linez locals, and everyone else who lent a hand or moved a rock as they came on through.
        If you haven't seen the new 'bridge' crossing,  take a look and you'll see the fine work that a couple of come-alongs, a chainsaw, and a sledge can do.  And right next to it is a new rock-hop stream crossing that was tested with a 2 1/2 year old in tow!
        Follow the Green Carabiner trail from there,  and you'll see a few fallen trees cut out of the way, and up at the High Electricity boulder, the prickers are cleared.
        Afterward the trail work,  we hung three ropes on the Papa Bear wall, and finished around the corner on 'Back to the Wall' and 'No Rest for the Wicked.'  Everyone agreed that the 'Linez were worth every bit of effort.  More pictures/video to come!
        Overall,  many many thanks are owed: to Jenny from the Access Fund,  Steve Knowlton,  Dave Barone and Sally,  Lucas, from the Gravity Vault, and Mike, and Mike jr.,  Dave Chauvin, Mike and Ralph, Billy Yago, and Tauni and Jono Crefeld.  Thanks for the spirit, contributions, and for taking care of the Powerlinez.  Jon Crefeld.

TRAIL AND CLIMB DAY - THIS SATURDAY 2 APRIL

This has already been a busier Spring than ever at the 'Linez,  and this will be a great chance to introduce a friend, meet a new one, and show off your FA! (Spray!) We are supported by the Access Fund, and we will have some swag to raffle off!

We meet at the The Gravity Vault, 107 Pleasant Ave @ Rt. 17 N Upper Saddle River, NJ 0745 at 9 am,  and we will work/climb until approximately 3 pm.  Bring work gloves, tools, climbing shoes and gear.  I'll have a chain saw, (there's one log on the path from the parking lot)  machete and some shovels,  and if you have a favorite power tool,  within reason,  it might come in handy. Can't wait to see you! Access Fund Post

'Shirts Off' Weather!

A 50°F day at the Powerlinez can be 'shirts off' weather, and so the season is crashing upon us!  I don't know about you, but I'm catching the bug like Mid-east Democracy.          Let us realize, though, that this year is going bring some challenges.  Thanks to yours truly, ahem, The 'Powerlinez' guidebook is on sale at The Gravity Vault, Rock and Snow, and Brooklyn Boulders. So, it would be reasonable and prudent to expect more climbers and boulderers.          It's probably time for a plan.  A Climbing Management Plan as they call it over at the Access Fund site.  And I know what you're thinking, "That sounds like about as much fun as carrying water in paper bags." Right?         Hold that thought.  Ever been part of a bouldering party?  Top-rope party?  FA Party?  Party is an appropriate word.  Now, the way I see it, a Climbing Management Plan is our way of throwing a great party.  It is truly our party plan, and how we make sure we can host the best, sustainable climbing and bouldering party on the planet.  Now, there's some deep, big picture, thoughts.  Meditate on that for a bit, and we'll work something out.  Jon.

Back to the Wall 5.7 G ***

Dave and I got the chance to get out on the 16th, and what could have just been a nice day turned into a three star route.

I lured Dave out to the 'Linez with the promise of an FA, but when he saw the line he wised up, twice,  on pitch one and two.  Well,  what can I say - it looked do-able, and it proved to be exactly that.

The climb starts just left of No Rest for the Wicked,  behind the giant Shark's Tooth boulder, and follows some wandering cracks.  Up high, the crux delivered on exposure, while you're pulling pretty hard on these crazy lobes!

Dave is saying 5.8,  but I think it would make a Gunks sandbag at 5.7,  and we'll see what other people have to say!

Deluxe Free Beta!

To celebrate the NEW Powerlinez website: www.tornevalleyclimbing.com, just click on the Climb link and there's a whole bunch of pages from the guidebook downloadable in high quality PDF format. Spread the word, it will not last forever!

www.tornevalleyclimbing.com

Tri-cam Rips Out

"This tri-cam is probably a bad example.  They can dig into soft rock pretty easy, and it's in there good.  You got me?"


Kevin was on top-rope on a new 5.6 just right of The Contortionist.  We were thinking that it might be a good easy trad route, and so he was testing to see how gear would hold.


Kevin leaned back off the cliff,  quickly weighting the tri-cam, as the top-rope stretched ... and SNAP! the tri-cam ripped and shot out like a bullet.  Kevin looked into the horizontal crack and said, 'It broke off the crystal that was holding it (the stinger.)'

Lesson learned.  The rock quality at the Powerlinez is at times great for climbing.  At times,  holds break off in your hands.  Trad rock pro places even greater stress on the rock than the pulling, stepping and wedging of climbing.  Trad pro at the Powerlinez is sketchy,  and bolting lines with 3 and 3/8 inch bolts has proven pretty prudent.


The CAMP TRI-CAM manual states: "The ability of TRI-CAMS to convert most shear forces to expansion (when used in their standard mode) means that they are the most secure form of protection available for decomposed granite and soft sandstone ... "  So, this experiment was a good guage for trad prospects at the Powerlinez.  Now to be exhaustive, there are some great trad only routes at the Powerlinez, and quite a bit of thought and expertise has gone into making that call.

Route Names Anyone?

21 May 10 - I believe this was a pheasant chick.  That I cannot confirm,  but what I can confirm is the existence of two new routes on the Good Book Wall.  Connecticut Rope Gun Kevin Johnson dropped in to give a hand, and sent perhaps our first 10d on the wall.  Dave gave the college try to what perhaps will be our first 10b.  Of course, Kevin Johnson sent our first 5.11 back last October with the God Jam Roof.   We have to invite him back sparingly or he's going to take all our best routes.  And these two routes are definitely plums, on solid, overhanging rock.  This brings our proud total of sports lines to four.